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Icons of watchmaking

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Icons of watchmaking

Each of them has its own story. Spirit manifested in the most beautiful shapes. History is the best evidence of that. Their value is determined by their age. Which iconic watches can never be forgotten?

Astronomic watches: ULYSEE NARDIN Astrolabium Galileo Galilei

Watchmaking giant was established in 1864 by a master watchmaker Ulysee Nardin. It became famous thanks to precise nautical chronometers people used to define exact positions of ships. That was a basis of the success that has survived till 21st century. Contrariwise. In spite of other strong marketing brands, the UN has kept its nobleness, exclusivity and greatness. It deals with silicon mechanical technology that had in certain times ruined the Swiss watchmaking industry. It was Rolf W. Schnyder who bought the company in 1983 and since then he has started to cooperate with Dr. Ludwig Oechslini, similarly well-known watchmaker and scientist like Nardin himself. And since then the real art pieces of heavenly values have been created. A collection of astronomical watches Trilogy was created. It contained three models: Astrolabium Galileo Galilei (1985), Planetarium Copernicus (1988) and Tellerium Johannes Kepler (1992). These beautiful watches were recorded in the Guinness book of records. Reason? Models showed not only time but also mutual position of Sun, Earth, Moon and planets of the Sun System, shift of day and night on the Earth and these were defined according to the azimuth and altitude above the sea level. Astrolabium Galileo Galilei watches were the first ones offering certain astronomical features.

The first watches on the Moon: OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Chronograph

Similarly, the Omega a Swiss watchmaking company, has an interesting history dated up to 1848 when it was established by Louis Brandtem in the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture. Why are we mentioning this? Because this town is considered to be the Swiss watches bow and even kids know the saying “Be precise like the Swiss watches”. Some interesting historical facts to start with: Omega had become an official supplier of watches for the British Royal Air Force, athletes’ performances at the Olympic Games have been measured solely by Omegas and NASA chose them as a chronograph for their Space Programs. And here their cosmic story has begun – exactly on July 20, 1969. Astronaut Edwin Buzz Aldrin together with Neil Armstrong had Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronograph during the Apollo 11. Omega then got the primacy – watches were the first on the Moon. That resulted into their immortal fame and reputation of the mist iconic watches worldwide – so called Moonwatch. To honour this event all watches have this inscription engraved in the crown: „The first watch worn on the moon“. Cooperation with NASA was sealed not only thanks to their unique preciseness but also to their extreme resistance against temperature fluctuations, vibrations, magnetic Pole, and their functioning by a zero gravitation. Just a note: Eugen Cernan, a former NASA astronaut with the Czechoslovak roots was the last man on the Moon, is an Ambassador of this trademark.

Watches for pilots: Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute

Another Swiss watchmaker – legendary Breitling has its No.1. It has been existing since 1884, when Leon Breitling opened his first workshop however its absolute boom came in 1915 when the company invented the first wrist-chronograph. That became the No.1 for pilots because it enabled them to measure distances or fuel consumption of the aircraft. Another proof that history has future. We do not know any other collection which would have so many aviation and original features like Navitimer from Breitling (NAVIgation & TIMER, nicknamed navigational computer). That is the oldest collection of automatic chronographs produced almost continuously. This fame and prestige were arranged by the Navitimer Cosmonaute watch with 24-hours circle proudly worn by the astronaut Scott Carpenter on May 24, 1962 when he made three circles around the Earth in his Aurora 7 spaceship. In order to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this important event the Breitling company introduced a refreshed version of the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute Blacksteel limited edition driven by its own in-house clockwork Calibre 02 with the 24-hours time zone and 70 hours reserve operation.

JAEGER-LeCOULTRE, Reverso watch with a revolutionary rotary system

From the beginning was the model Reverso determined to become the largest icon in the watchmaking industry. The premiere model was introduced in 1931 by a very reasonable partnership created between Jaeger & Le Coultre and it was a milestone for the legend to be born – a legend few models can compete with. And this year is its 85th anniversary! Who has been behind? Designed upon the request of British commissioned officers active in India. They needed watches that would be resistant against strong hits caused by playing their popular game – polo. And then it happened. Geniality of “master watchmakers” caused there was designed a revolutionary rotary system enabling to rotate circle counter-clockwise without any scratching. One of the pioneers was Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1948, made to celebrate 17th birthday of an immutable line with a rotary construction as of 1931. Ultrathin case with thickness of just 7.2mm and bright white watch face and blue hands are timeless issue. Inside there is a super thin calibre 822/2 with the manual clock winding and operational reserve of 42 hours designed by a team of the JLC designers. The clock drive comprises of 114 parts in total, 19 of which are synthetic rubies.

Professional racers’ watches: ROLEX, Daytona

Rolex is a synonym of wealth, luxury and richness within the watchmaking industry. Its logo – golden crown says it itself. The Swiss manufacturer was the first who received a quality certificate and introduced the first waterproof watch in the world as well as the first self-winding chronograph and the first watch with two time zones. There is not just a well designed marketing campaign. Rolex is forever. Model Rolex Daytona has become the bestselling and most sought-after model of the company and by the occasion of this watchmaking jewel’s 50th birthday the company introduced its platinum version. However, worth of sinning is the golden edition too. But back to history. In 1963 the watch was designed in such a manner for them to meet professional racers’ requirements – to measure velocity perfectly up to the speed of 409 km/h. This model was also a favourite of the actor Paul Newman who was told to have the watch on his wrist every day since 1972 until his death. It might have been him who helped to create a cult around this model and gave him certain status increasing its value year by year and causing the watch are being sold on auctions for very high prices. Definitely, it is worth of collecting you don’t need to be afraid to invest in!

Rolex Daytona Cosmograph Oyster Perpetual Chronometer 18k gold and steel Swiss chronograph wrist wat

Jana Mutňanská

Photos: Profimedia, Jaeger-LeCoultre Press, Ulysee-Nardin Press, Dreamstime, PRESS